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| Write a germination comment Germination instructions for palms Germination instructions for cycads Germination instructions for bananas, heliconias, strelitzias, aroids, gingers and screw pines Germination instructions for agave, yucca and related plants Germination instructions for tree ferns Links |
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| germination instructions for palms | |
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The following are general tips that will work for all species. If the seeds appear dry, soak them in warm water for 1-3 days. For sowing, use peat, cocofiber, or similar media. It should be moist but not wet. Take a fistful. If you can just squeeze a couple of drops of water from it, then it is about right. If you can squeeze more, then it is too wet. If too dry, add a little water and try again. Mix the seeds with the moist compost and place into a clear plastic (ziploc) bag, label with species name and date, and seal. No light is required for germination. Tropical species such as Licuala, Bismarckia or Cyrtostachys require heat, around 30°C/90°F. Temperate species such as Trachycarpus, Ceroxylon or Parajubaea will germinate at lower temperatures, and heat may actually prevent germination. You may want to check our website for individual requirements. Check weekly for signs of activity by looking for white roots through the plastic. Ensure that the medium does not dry out. The seeds can take anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 years (or more) to germinate; however, most will sprout after 4-6 weeks. After the seeds have sprouted, plant each in a tall, narrrow pot using a well-drained medium, label, and place in ample light, but not in full sun. Aim to keep the soil moist (but not wet) at all times, feed and pot on as required. More information can be found in the species archive and in the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ). We also recommend consulting one of the many books on palms available through this website, as well as articles on germination in the various Palm Society magazines. See links below. For more precise and exhaustive germinating instructions also check out our booklist! |
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| germination instructions for cycads | |
The following are general tips that will work for all species. If the seeds appear dry, soak them in warm water for 1-3 days. Desiccation may result in the seeds moving around in the shell when shaken. This does not affect their viability. Most cycad seeds sink in water, which is an easy way to check their viability. Seeds of some species though float naturally, such as Cycas thouarsii and C. litoralis. For sowing, use a free draining mix of peat, cocofiber and sand, perlite, or similar media. It should be kept moist but not wet. Fill a pot and bury the seeds only halfway in the compost. Cover with clear plastic and label with species name and date. The baggie method, as recommended for palms, will also work but seeds should best stay on top of the compost. No light is required for germination. Most cycads germinate best at temperatures between 25 and 30°C (75 to 90°F). Check weekly for signs of activity by looking for white roots through the plastic. Ensure that the medium does not dry out. Most cycads will sprout after 4-8 weeks. After the seeds have sprouted, plant each in a tall, narrrow pot using a well drained medium, label, and place in ample light. Species from drier habitats can take full sun from early age. Aim to keep the soil moist but never wet, feed and pot on as required. More information can be found in the species archive and in the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ). We also recommend consulting one of the books on cycads available through this website. For more precise and exhaustive germinating instructions also check out our booklist! |
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| germination instructions for bananas, heliconias, strelitzias, aroids, gingers and screw pines (pandanus) | |
The following are general tips that will work for all species. If the seeds appear dry, soak them in warm water for 1-3 days. Pandanus seeds will float, all others should sink in water. For sowing, use peat, cocofiber, or similar media. It should be moist but not wet. Take a fistful. If you can just squeeze a couple of drops of water from it, then it is about right. If you can squeeze more, then it is too wet. If too dry, add a little water and try again. Mix the seeds with the moist compost and place into a clear plastic (ziploc) bag, label with species name and date, and seal. Place seeds in a well lit spot but out of direct sunlight, at temperatures between 25 and 30°C (75 to 90°F). Most bananas benefit from hot days and cooler nights for best germination. Check weekly for signs of activity by looking for shoots. Ensure that the medium does not dry out. The seeds can take anywhere from 2 weeks to a year (or more) to germinate; however, most will sprout after 4-6 weeks. After the seeds have sprouted, carefully transfer to a pot, label, fertilize and place in bright light, but not in full sun. Aim to keep the soil moist (but not wet) at all times, feed and pot on as required. More information can be found in the species archive and in the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ). |
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| germination instructions for agave, yucca and related plants | |
The following are general tips that will work for all species. For sowing, use a gritty mix of peat, cocofiber, vermiculite and perlite, sand or similar media. Fill shallowly in trays or pots and sow the seeds on the surface. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil, about as thick as the seeds are. Label with species name and date. Do not cover with plastic or glass. Place trays or pots at temperatures between 25 and 30°C (75 to 90°F) in a brightly lit spot but out of full sun and keep slightly damp but never wet. Seeds will sprout reliably after a few days or weeks. When the seedlings are well established, plant them in individual pots, using a very well drained medium, label, and place in bright light. Once rooted, with few exceptions, they can take full sun in all but the hottest climates. Feed and pot on as required. Excellent drainage is essential for most Agaves and Yuccas. More information can be found in the species archive and in the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ). |
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| germination instructions for tree ferns | |
The following are general tips that will work for all species. Like all ferns, tree ferns produce spores not seeds. These spores are of microscopic size and will produce a translucent moss-like growth called a prothallus a few weeks after sowing. From this, the actual plants will grow. Reproducing ferns from spores requires patience and very clean equipment to avoid infections with bacteria, fungus or mosses. A nursery tray or similar plastic container is best for sowing spores. Plant pots are usually too tall. Fill the tray with a few centimeters of substrate such as peat, sphagnum, perlite or a mix from a bag. Cocopeat often has a high salt content that may damage the plants and is not recommended. The easiest option to sterilize the mixture is by pouring boiling water over it. The downside of this method is that you cannot assure that the entire substrate was thoroughly heated through and usually it will be soaking wet when it should just be moist for sowing the spores. More effective is placing the entire tray in a microwave and heat through until steaming. To be even more effective, let cool and repeat the process. Once cooled, sparingly sprinkle the spores on the surface. Bad results often come from sowing the spore too densely. Cover with a sheet of glass or plastic wrap, leaving a very small gap for ventilation, and place in a well lit spot but out of direct sunlight as that could overheat the container. Keep at around 20°C or a little warmer for lowland tropical tree ferns. You should see some condensation on the cover. After a few weeks you should see the prothalli forming. The first tiny fronds should appear a few weeks or months later. Allow a little more air in through the cover to harden the plants off a little. When they are big enough to grab, pot them up in a free draining, humus-rich mixture. Keep them covered and slowly harden them off to outside conditions. More information can be found in the species archive and in the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ). |
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Palm Seed Germination by Alan W. Meerow, University
of Florida The following articles are only available to members of the European Palm Society
(you can easily join online): Need to know more? Ask other palm enthusiasts on the International
Palm Society Message Board Haven't found the seeds you are looking for? Check out Karen Platt's book "Seed Search" |
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